Silver Pigeon Scooter update

I have two small updates on Silver Pigeon related news, which will only matter to the handful of us that actually own these scooters, and the smaller percentage of even that small amount that actually visits my goofy blog.

So Silverpigeon.org has been retired and I’ve rolled the site into this place to keep everything in one spot. You can now find all the old Mitsubishi Silver Pigeon stuff at http://silverpigeon.somethingthatdoesntsuck.com/. There are links at the top of this page and side as well.


I’ve also started working on my old C-75 Pigeon since I got sick of seeing it parked in the back of the barn as a pile of sheet metal. Since its motor did not like to run, but begrudgingly would, and its cvt clutch was MIA and the remainder butchered, I had some time ago decided to replace it all with something more reliable. This ended up getting over involved and complicated, and then stalled out when progress forward needed my buddy to machine a bunch of custom parts.

So its pushing forward now but I’m doing things much differently. Things are going to be simpler, with only a custom gas tank/engine mount getting in the way. The rest of the parts should be mostly off the shelf stuff in case anyone else out there would like to repower their scooter in a similar method.


So what its getting now is a Honda Gx200 clone motor with a Comet Torq-a-verter clutch setup. through the helpfulness of the custom gas tank/motor mount I welded up the motor should line its sprocket up with the rear. Its not perfect but given the space restraints it was the best I could manage. I have more parts on the way, so we will see how this works out. The electric start/charge system is going to be a pain in the rear. If you plan on going this route consider spending a bit more money and getting a motor with a starter or 7 amp charge coil on it already, or both if you can somehow spot that unicorn in the wild. More updates soon.



Metro Axles

Spent the last couple years trying to find some replacement axles for one of my International Metros so that it could finally set up off the ground. Well, this summer I finally picked up a pair of front and back axles off a 72′ International 1210 pickup cause I thought and had read somewhere that they would be a direct bolt on. Well, when going to put the front on last week I found out that’s not the case.

The 1210’s axle has a 31 ‘1/2 center to center spring spacing, while the Metro had a 28″ spacing. The outside hub faces of the 1210’s axle will be about one inch wider on each side, Metro’s axle at drum face to face 64″ and the 1210’s at 66″.

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So rather that try to hunt down another impossible to find truck I-beam I decided to just get some 1/2″ plate and make an ugly adapter of sorts.


So this is the new 1210 axle, the plate bolts to it via the blue bolts and then the spring pads on the axle will be drilled so the narrower leaf spacing of the metro can allow the ubolts to go through the spring pad. Not pictured in the sketch are the centering pin holes, which are there on the actual adapter.

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Can see here that I sunk the inside bolts down so that the top of their heads are flush with the top of the plate. The leafs of the Metro will just sit on top of them this way. Then just have to use the inner empty bolt holes for the new ubolts. I guess we will see how this actually works out. Should be alright I hope.

But going this route I’ll be able to use 8 bolt F-250 rims and tires, so no more split rims, and also the rear will get the old 1210’s Dana 60 which will allow it to actually cruise decently with traffic, maybe even keep up with things on the freeway.


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Two out of four ain’t bad.


Garden time

Its spring (finally), time to get things in order for planting!


This year in my quest to gather all the implements I can for my old John Deere 110, I managed to get a decent model 30 tiller off from a guy with the rear lift bracket. I never really seen how these mounted on the tractor, and after getting it home realized that I was missing a few bits.

First was the belt. I always thought that you needed an extra mule drive or something up front to run the tiller, which you don’t on the round fender 110, its only needed on the square fenders. The round fender 110’s do however need a special auxiliary drive pully thing that goes on their existing mule drive.


Not the best picture of this, but its a pulley that hangs off the outside of your normal mule/deck drive pulley. Its a bit wider than what the mower deck pulley is. Also since it hangs off the outside, its going to make turning to the right suck even more than it already did. I had an easier time on ebay searching for 110/112 mule drive assemblies and just getting the whole unit with the extra pulley than finding the single pulley. Also I replaced all my pto clutch parts and got a new belt, since its always been jankety and I was sick of it.


My 110 never had a rear lift kit installed on it, so I had to make one. I was going to copy the original exactly but then realized that was a dumb idea and just simplified it to make things easier. So above is what I came up with for the lift cable/bracket.


Under the tractor I made a bracket and used some washers and a bearing for the pulley.


Here it is hooked to the tiller. It works pretty darn well, I’m quite happy with it so far. Since the rear tiller frame/mount is now on the tractor, and I have a working rear lift setup, I guess the next thing to do is to just make a rear integral/sleeve hitch. More than half the parts are on the tractor already, so might as well finish it up. After this I’ll be able to get a plow mounted on the back which should be fun.


Fun with a broken Canon EF 28–70mm f/2.8L, or how I learned to love/hate USM.

Before I got back into photography with the amazingness that came with the digital camera revolution, I had always looked from afar at the older Canon L lenses and their fancy red rings. These pro lenses have always been out of reach for me financially, since it doesn’t make much sense for a hobby photographer to go and blow $1,400 on a lens.

But, I’ve finally caved in and bought one. Not a new nice lens, heck, not even gently or heavily used but working lens. I decided to get a clapped out, bottom of the Ebay barrel, broken and non functioning used lens. Hooray! This older 28-70mm came from a fellow in New York who trained parrots, so I’m not sure what it may have experienced in its life span. Its zoom function was very stiff as if it was binding on something, mostly it did not like to reach the stop at the 28mm side, also the auto focus was not working and would go “clack clack clack clack” when trying to focus jumping all around never reaching its target.

The lens in good physical condition for something that has not been made in at least 13 years (production ran from 1993 to 2002), and has no fungus or glue separation issues on the glass, just mechanical problems. So I figured, what the heck, lets try to fix it.

First thing I did was try to read up on what type of USM drives Canon used in their lenses, and also what the heck a USM drive actually is. What I found out is Ultra Sonic Motors operate on vibration, hence them being ultra sonic. This means that the focus motor runs the camera lens like one of those old vibrating football table games. From this ultra high frequency it can run the motor forward and backwards depending on what wave it generates. I’m not going to go into this to much further here, but if you interested in finding more Wikipedia has a bunch of info on it that is really interesting, or hit up my original thread over at FredMiranda.com, some users over there had some good info.

I then started trying to source some parts to fix my lens. But since the 28-70mm has not been made in so long, all the parts are out of production and Canon no longer services it. This got me thinking, since the USM focus drive motors seemed like a very expensive thing to have placed into production, it would not make since for Canon to redesign them for every lens. The research and development on that would be crazy, plus why make new focus motors for your other lenses if you have a perfectly good working one in production? From what I’ve found this is about what Canon thought too, they only have two motor sizes of USM drives they make. A 62mm and a 77mm, the 77mm motor being the one I assume is used in all larger L based lenses (don’t quote me on that, its just a guess). Also the other lenses USM drives appear to only have different shaped or length ribbon connecting to the motor.

So, I took a chance and ordered a USM drive/motor for a newer lens, the Canon EF 24-70mm F/2.8 L USM -Part# YG2-2064-000

As luck would have it, the motor and ribbon cable on the newer lens are exactly the same as its older 28-70mm brother. So, here’s how to replace it.

(NOTE, if you decided to tear your expensive lens apart and manage to mangle it somehow, its not my fault. Also replacing the USM drive will not fix all focus problems, lenses are complicated, lots of things can break).


1. Here is the 28-70mm next to the 24-70mm’s focus motor assembly. Gives you a rough idea how the part fits within the lens.


2. Time to tear into it. Using a set of JIS micro screwdrivers (don’t use standard phillips screw drivers, they will just strip the heads), take out all arrowed screws.


3. Pop the center ring out by pulling straight up on it, make sure to keep some pressure down on the lenses rear mount flange so you don’t damage lenses contact connector.


4. Lifting the rear mount off.


5. Next section comes straight off now exposing the lenses PCB.


6. The lenses PCB. Red arrow is the USM motors pulse setting screw. The USM stator is divided in two halfs, and ran by pulses, which are supposed to be sent in equal spacing, such as:  –  –  –  –  –  –  -. If the pulse are out of adjustment it may appear staggered or off balance such as: —– — —– — —– — —–   This is bad, Turning this screw will change the pulse spacing, but without an oscilloscope this is just kind of trial and error. Its supposed to be adjusted after changing out the focus motor or PCB, but on my lens at least it seemed to be about right even after the motor change. The blue arrow is the frequency adjustment screw which you can use to change the frequency the motor runs at. I don’t have the service manual in front of me at the moment for its intended value, but its best not to mess with this one, or if you do mark where it was set at (actually do that on both if your playing with them).

Back to tearing things apart. Lightly tug on most of the ribbons to unplug them. Release the locks on the two ribbons that use them, then just pull the PCB up and out once all is disconnected.


7. Remove the marked screws.


8. After removing the screws, just pull up on the barrel section feeding the ribbons through it as you go, make sure to fish it around the metal zoom stop, it will fight you a bit. Pull up the zoom ring next and slide it off in the same manner.


9. And here is the USM motor. Notice that the motors on the both are exactly the same, same ribbon shapes even. The top ring of the motor is glued on, so just spin it until it twists over to the release points. (I did not use glue on re-assembly, it seemed to act fine).

On my lens I ended up having to use the old rotor (bottom thick ring), new stator (notched teethy ring), new felt washer, and old spring/lock. The rotor may have been slightly taller on the newer 24-70mm motor, but I’m not sure. I will say I had to put the lens back together and tear it down around 4 times before it was happy with the combination new/old USM motor parts I picked and was working correctly. I would have to guess that USM drives are not meant to be replaced in this manner, but rather as whole assemblies which are pre adjusted and working from the factory.



Old USM motor from the 28-70mm on the left, newer 24-70mm Mark 1 motor on the right. Pretty much identical.



28-70mm all together on my T2i working like a champ.


So now that its back together, what do the pictures look like? Well…. odd. The lens seems to be out of collimation, especially when used at 70mm. So I took a few shots on the wide end of 28mm and they turned out okay-ish:

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So the 70mm end is out of wack, its not the end of the world. Heck this way it turns things into a blurry mess that sort of look like an impressionist painting. Its not broken, its a specialty lens!

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Sometime soon I’ll send it off to a repair shop for a cleaning and lens calibration, but for now its on abstract duty.




I finally picked up a Bower/Rokinon/Samyang/etc 14mm 2.8 UMC lens for my old Canon 5D. This is a fun lens! The 5D with the 14mm on it has a crazy wide field of view. So with new lens in tow I decided to go give it a shot, in -14 degree weather. Batteries didn’t last long and I burned my fingers on the cold aluminum legs of my tripod but I managed to get this shot of Orion and Pleiades over Vermontville (composite of 14 some images).